Saturday, May 17, 2003


My Actual Route












Friday, May 16, 2003

Hutchenhousen, Germany

This afternoon I turned in 13 rolls of film that should be ready for pick-up on Monday. I'm having everything developed on disc as well as prints so I can add pictures to the blog. Hopefully I will get to that sometime next week. Thanks everyone for reading and stay-tuned for more updates...

Thursday, May 15, 2003

Kaiserslautern, Germany

Arrived home yesterday morning at 0822 (gotta love those on-the-dot German trains). Pam picked me up at the train station and let Ryan ditch school for the day so we could all spend the day together. We went back to the house but the movers came last week so it is virtually empty. We are staying with Dave and Lisa while we clear over the next month while we clear and get ready to head back to the states.


My thoughts on Europe for backpackers...

Donning a pack and getting a rail pass is a fabulous way to experience Europe. Hostels exist for all types and class of traveler from the ultra-cheap party hostels to the two-star bare-bones hotels or pensions. Rail travel is extensive and relatively simple to navigate and, with the exception of Italy, can be relied upon to the minute most of the time. Most of the major cities have excellent public transportation systems (again, Italy remains a glaring exception) and as a general rule the purchase of a short-term transit pass is usually a good move.
It is also important to try and get out of the heavily touristed areas to soak up some of the local culture. This doesn't always require getting out of the city itself, only a little searching for some place off the beaten path. At the same time there is much to be said for the experience of being in a convergence of other like-minded travelers.
The largest allure of the backpacking a foreign country is the people you meet along the way. Surely the various sites and glimpses into different cultures are interesting and informative but never underestimate the value and enjoyment of the people you meet along the way. Just because you happen to be in Paris, for instance, doesn't mean you should overlook the opportunity of spending the day sharing a few bottles of wine with a couple of Aussies on holiday. The people you meet along the way will make up the bulk of the memories of your trip.
Structure is a cruel mistress on a backpacking vacation and will surely let you tired, worn & weathered, and missing out on the surprise events that invariably pop up when you least expect them. The freedom to stay or leave at will creates an aura of relaxed vagabonding unmatched by and other mode of exploration. The shining jewels of travel are best mined without the hindrance of destination nor the discipline of the clock.


Specific memories of this trip begin in Sweden, a simply gorgeous country filled with character, wonderful people, beautiful women and a general ease and appreciation of living. The Netherlands with its stark contrasts between the overly touristed hustle and bustle of Amsterdam and the sleepy relaxed tolerance throughout the rest of the country.
The long-held French stereotype shattered before my very eyes in Paris and the beautify and intrigue of the Venus de Milo.
Florence and her exquisite views and countryside followed by the magic of ancient Rome and finally culminating with my travels south with Aussie Mike and meeting up with Claire and Steph for a taste of the Irish.
The complete surprise of Budapest who held me such a willing prisoner, cured my tired and blistered feet in her glorious baths and eventually rejuvenated my wanderlust shipping me off to Prague to experience my final few travel days in a city where even a depleted bank account can't hinder a good time, a full belly and a cloudy hops-filled head.
Though there remains much of Europe to explore I could not have asked for a more enjoyable time or a better experience. And though I am fully glad to be home with my family my European experiences will forever remain one of the most enlightening and enjoyable times of my life.


In summary, there is no right or wrong way to travel Europe. Every European city bursts with options for all types of people and all styles of travel. The architecture throughout the continent is as varied and stunning as the countryside and the inhabitants along the way. By far, the rails remain my preferred mode of travel and nothing but a pack light enough to forget it's on your back is a blessing.
My best advice is to simply pick a city and go. From there let accumulated experience and the wind be your guide. Talk with other travelers, strike up conversations, tell them what you've learned and more importantly, glean what they've learned from their recent travels. Take their advice but don't hold them responsible for it. Hostel atmospheres remain in a constant state flux of change with far too many variables to predict. If a few fellow traveler's advice turns sour make the best of it or simply move on. The trip is yours to do with what you wish, you control its destiny, wield the power well and experience life to its fullest!

Tuesday, May 13, 2003

Prague, C.R.

All packed and checked out of The Clown & Bard Hostel. I'm going to go have a leisurely breakfast in the hostel bar... their breakfast is actually quite good here, all you can eat from a huge array of cereals, cheeses, olives and peppers, toast, buns, pastries, coffee and tea, juices, granola, jams and hard boiled eggs. They serve until 1300hrs and encourage you to relax and enjoy just having coffee and nibbling all morning while meeting the other guests.


My thoughts on Prague...

Prague is a stunning city with more than enough to occupy you for a few weeks. I haven't come close to seeing all the sites in the few days I've been here. The people are friendly and helpful. The public transport system is good and despite what I had been told about not being able to find addresses I had no problems finding anything I was looking for. The prices are slightly cheaper than Budapest with a pint of beer ringing in at an average cost of 18Kc and the average full meal costing under 100Kc.

I will return to Prague and see more of its sites and experience more of the city. It is most definitely well worth the time to visit.

Prague, C.R.

Spent the day wandering around the city admiring some absolutely beautiful architecture. The Jewish Quarter, Charles Bridge and castle are all worthy sites to see. I still may do the walking tour tomorrow afternoon but I'm not sure. Went out with a big group from the hostel tonight to have dinner and a few pints. We had a great time and enjoyed the evening quite a bit.
Prague is a nice city and most definitely worth the time to visit. I would probably stay longer but my funds are just about depleted and I'm ready to be home. So tomorrow I will hop a train that will put me in Kasierslautern about 8:30 Thursday morning. It's been a great trip and I've had a lot of fun, learned a lot and met some great people along the way.
But for the moment, bed is calling and I'm on my way.

Praha, Czeck Republic

Had a fun night last night. Met up with Jessica and Halga from Budapest (they are also staying at the Clown and Bard) and then was joined by Tom (just getting in from Chicago). We decided to go to the Akropolys and have a few beers. The C.R. beer sneaks up and slaps you all of a sudden.
This morning I had the hostel breakfast with Tom we're going to check out the city sites. I am considering doing the walking tour tomorrow. It will be a good way to pass the time before my train leaves for Kaiserslautern tomorrow night and as long as I can keep a few hundred crown back to pay for it I will be able to do it. I need to find a journal sticker today and then tonight will be my last night here before heading home.

Sunday, May 11, 2003

Praha, Czech Republic

Just into Prague and sitting at the Fantova Kavarna Cafe having a cappuccino and killing some time. The travel agency on the corner opens at 9:00 and I want to check the price of a bus ticket back to Kaiserslautern. A train ticket will cost me 2100 Kc, if a bus ticket is significantly cheaper I will probably opt for that route. I don't know if I will make it to Poland or not but since I expect to return to Eastern Europe I can live with missing it this trip.


My thoughts on Budapest...


On the surface Budapest has little more to offer than any other European city; Stunning architecture, a vast and well-preserved palace, castle grounds, museums and art galleries as well as the charm of an ancient European city. But the true allure of Budapest is not as a city but a lifestyle. The Magyar are very conscious of their ancient Central-Asian heritage as they struggle to engrain Budapest and Hungary itself with a distinct identity, whitewashing decades of sterile communistic rule in the process. The days behind the Iron Curtain are hardly forgotten however as a quick walk through Statue Park well proves. Though billed as a major tourist attraction it leaves much to be desired in the way of interest. For a true touristic memory a picnic lunch in the park followed by an afternoon in one of the many thermal bathhouses can instantly spark a love affair with the city and its relaxed, laid-back atmosphere and attitude.
Budapest is very tourist-friendly with an overabundance of inexpensive lodging, food, excellent beers and spirits. Soft drugs are unofficially tolerated and readily available with ease and even the dodgy sections of the city manage to maintain an air of dignity.


Truly enjoying Budapest demands exploring the people and the culture. Two or three days will get you through the tourist hot-spots and a stamp for your passport, two or three weeks will have you planning a return trip before you check out of your room!

Bratislava, Slovakia

Passed into Slovakia about an hour ago. The border guards boarded the train and did random searches. I lost my water bottle and was dying of thirst but luckily we had about a 10-minute layover here before taking off again for Prague and I was able to hop out and make it to a water fountain. I took a Tylenol PM also because my tooth is really hurting and I am all out of pain meds. I think in Prague I will have to find a pharmacy and see what they can give me for pain.
As I was leaving Budapest I just caught Mark returning from Serbia. He said he had a great time and if I get the chance I should go.

Budapest, Hungary

All packed and ready to leave the Station Guest House in Budapest, Hungary. There is a 1900hrs overnight train to Prague so if all goes according to plan I will be on that one. The other night we finally made it to the Hungarian buffet. It was absolutely wonderful. A group of about eight of us went for the 2100hrs seating. We were no sooner sitting down before they were bringing out the first round of pints. Deciding to pace ourselves most of us opted to just have a bowl of soup and some bread while they brought bottles of wine to the table and furnished everyone with a wine glass.
The spread itself was far to varried to acurately describe in a paragraph but suffice to say there were traditional dishes such as Hungarian goulash, paprika chicken, mushrooms and rice, corn with bacon, a large selection of pate and cheeses along with a number of traditional cold salads. The shining entry to the main course selection however was a table with about 30 raw meats in different marinades. There was duck breast marinated in peppercorns, curried chicken breast, bbq pork and chicken, faita meat with veggies, along with other beef and fish dishes. The procedure was to pile a plate full of the raw marinated meats, then top it from a table of freshly cut veggies and take the whole plate to the grill where they grilled it to perfection handing you back a sizzeling plate of your selections. The tastes couldn't be beat and every aspect of the meal, right up to the final cappicino and hand-dipped ice cream over a huge selection of sweets was simply divine.
The cost was 2500 HUF per person, about 10 Euro. Yet another reason to love Budapest.
But as relaxing as it has been here, it is time to move on. I want to be home within a week and I would still like to see Prague. My funds are just about completely diminished so it is time to move on and work my way back home.