Bologna, Italy

Bologna was dead and not feeling up to a night crashed at the train station I hopped the next train which happened to be bound for Austria. So I'll do Vienna and Salzburg and see how I feel about heading back to Venice. I would like to see Venice but I am definitely ready to get out of Italy. Besides, I could use a real hostel bed and bathroom.


My thoughts on Italy...


First and foremost you have to get past the absolutely horrible and grossly deficient public transportation system. The trains themselves are comfortable and well-kept but the scheduling and ticket management is abysmal. The trains are late, often over an hour, 80 percent of them are always oversold and overbooked. The aisles are full of ticketed passengers who could not get a seat making them generally rude and cranky. The city subways and busses suffer the same, if not worse, problem with overcrowding but usually run on time.
The next issue is the public toilets which by American standards take some getting used to at best. Most offer simply a porcelain hole in the ground requiring perfect aim and a clothespin for the nose (many public toilets on the street are only housed by a section of 3-sided plastic, no roof and only about shoulder height). The few that do have bowls have no seats and toilet paper is your responsibility. Add to this that you get to pay for the privilege of using them.
Despite the lack of creature comforts, Italy is a beautiful country with undoubtedly some of the best scenery in Europe. Florence by far reigns supreme in the category while Sorrento follows close behind. Rome was not built in a day but you really need not block out much more than that to see it as a tourist.


So grab a roll of toilet paper and explore Italy. Indulge in the food and the views. Cut in half the time you plan on spending in Rome and lengthen your stay in Florence... and take extra film!

Napoli, Italy

Mike took off early this morning for Greece. I walked around Naples for a while and after leaving Sorrento and then headed back to the train station, hopped on a Northbound and sat there for about an hour until they finally canceled the train. So thanks to Italy's horribly deficient public transport system I had a few more hours to explore Napoli. It is not a very pleasant city. It is dirty and the begging situation is uncontrolled and runs rampant throughout but is most concentrated to the few blocks around the train station. The style is a bit different in Italy however (especially in Napoli) whereas instead of using an intimidation tactic it is much more young children and mothers with babies set out to tug the strings of your heart.
I do not think I would have any desire to return to Southern Italy except to climb. The crags between Rome and Naples are particularly beautiful jutting a few hundred meters per pitch. Though I have not seen much that looks below a 5.9 and only a few of them. This is serious rock for serious athletes..

Sorrento, Italy

Just a quick note on the service (or lack thereof) at the site resteraunt. Last night we found them rude and inattentive. Tonight I decided to give them a second chance and stopped in for espresso and a canoli while my wash was in the dryer. After sitting around for 10-15 minutes waiting for a menu I finally left. Now, I may be spoiled by the staff at Camping Tiber Rome, but the horrible service at the restoranti here goes a long way to cheapening what could be a really great place to stay. It's really too bad. I am sitting outside writing by candlelight, this time with a Cuban cigar and a bottle of red wine. It has been a pleasant relaxing day and I am quite content. Fresh clothes make a world of difference.

Sorrento, Italy

Arrived in Sorrento yesterday evening. It is a small tourist-trap of a city but the views are similar to those in Florence. The campsite is actually quite nice with a beautiful view of the ocean high atop jetting rocky cliffs. Aussie Mike came along with me and coincidentally we met up with Claire and Steph (the Irish girls from the last campsite) and they are staying at the same site.
Last night the four of us went out for dinner and I had gnocchi and Tuscan sausage that was quite tasty. Today the girls wanted us to go to Pompeii with them. Mike went but I opted to stay back and wander around the little city of Sorrento, do a load of wash and spend some time on the beach. The beach is not really a beach but more of a large slab of rock. There is very little sand around here and the ocean meets the land in the form of huge cliffs and rocky slabs. It's quite striking actually but the water is still far too cold in which to spend any time. But the sun is warm in the afternoon and the view is intoxicating.
I walked into town from our campsite this afternoon. It is only about a mile or so into the city center. But I will be taking a bus back since it is at the highest point of the city and the climb back would be exhausting.
I am currently sitting in an Irish pub for their internet access. Net access in Sorrento seems to be a pretty standard Euro 5 per hour. The food is good but different. Actually, I have noticed that about Italy. Everywhere I have been the food has been quite good but each place is slightly different in the way it is prepared and served. The Italians also are strict about courses. You first have starters which are usually antipasto consisting of meats and olives or tomatoes, mozzarella and olive oil. Then you have salad of mixed greens, onions and tomatoes. The following first course is a pasta dish, anything from various spaghetti to ravioli. The second course is your meat, usually some kind of sausage, served with french fries or another starch. Finishing up with gelati or a pastry. They will not bring you the first and second course together and will very strictly wait until you have finished your pasta before bringing the meat. They will begrudgingly let your salad plate on the table throughout the meal should you wish it. Most of the time I have made a meal of only the starters, salad and first course and been quite stuffed.

I think from here I am going to head North to Bologna and then to Venice. I might slip into Switzerland for a day if the mood strikes me before heading into Austria and then Prague. But I am certainly winding down my trip though it has been great fun experiencing all the different cultures and various stages of ways to see the countries.

Rome, Italy

Getting ready to check out of Camping Tiber Rome and head to Sorrento with Aussie Mike. Rome was a great time but I didn't spend much time in the city itself. I saw everything I wanted to see and it was all quite enchanting but the city itself is not where I would want to spend a great deal of time. Tiber Camping Rome makes for a wonderful stay and the staff is what makes the stay. They are all very quick to know your name and make you feel at home. I think the main reason for this is that the bulk of the staff consists of stalled travelers who have taken a job for a few months to build up some more cash to either get on their way or get back home.
Matt, the bartender really keeps things running at night and the place would be lost without him. Then there is Brooke, a very young guy from British Columbia who ran out of money in Rome and started working at Tiber in January. Jenny and her sister are both from California and waiting tables at the camp restaurant for 3 months before picking up and heading off on the rest of their trip. They all are friendly and very quick to join you at a table at the bar after most of the evening crowd has dissipated. It makes for a really relaxed and homey atmosphere.

Rome, Italy

Still in Rome and staying the night. After working out the specifics to get to Greece I decided it was not worth it for the few days I would be able to spend there. Between the supplements for the Eurostar trains and the two days of travel time it would take to get there and back plus at least another day and a half on the trains I decided, somewhat sadly but not heartbroken, to remove Corfu from my itinerary.
On the other hand, I am having a great time in Italy and have decided to see more of the country. Australia Mike and I decided to head off for Sorrento tomorrow morning. He was headed for Naples and then we ran across a great looking campground in Sorrento this morning while nursing our heads from last night's debauchery. So we looked a bit and are going to see if they have room and head on down. I will probably stay for two days and then head North for Bologna and then to Venice. Then validate my East rail pass and head for Austria and Prague.
I am starting to run pretty low on funds so I really have to watch my spending but I am still enjoying myself every day. I spent most of today in the sun at the campground planning out the rest of my journey and had a small lunch of spinach and cheese ravioli in meat sauce that was excellent. Tonight I am planning a quiet night and bought a notebook so I can just write a bit and perhaps sip an espresso to pass the time.

Rome, Italy

Last night was a drunken blizzard of faces and events the specific timeline and details of which elude me at this bright (really, really bright) and sunny Wednesday morning. It all began with Chrissy and I and our original plan to drain a 5-liter bottle of wine...


Since we were not allowed to bring the bottle into the bar we began to drink at one of the tables outside. Australia Mike had opted out of the wine and into a few pints inside the bar. Each of us periodically visited him inside and vice-versa. At first each time I visited him the party at his table grew. There were first two other Aussie girls and then a Dane and when the bar had closed for all but us and Chrissy and I finally hauled our still 2-liter bottle of wine into the bar the table was completed by the Matt, the bartender and two sexy little Irish girls (Claire and Steph). I struck up a great conversation with Claire about the IRA, Iran and Iraq and the Civil War in the states.
I finally made it to bed around 4 in the morning to sleep off more wine and various other spirits than any 35-year-old should ever consume in a single sitting. This morning I sit with a cappuccino and Thomas Cook arranging my passage to Greece. It was a great night filled with great people and conversations as well as insight to other countries, though very little of Italy crept into our discussions.

Rome, Italy

Had a pretty full day and had no problem seeing all of Rome I wanted to see within the constraints of one day. I left this morning with Mike (Australia) and Chrissy (Carlisle, PA). We did the Vatican Museum and the Sistine Chapel this morning. I have always wanted to see Michelangelo's ceiling and it was everything I'd ever imagined and so much more. I do not know how long I spent gazing upon it but I easily could have spent days. I really appreciated having _Mona Winks_ with me. It gave great perspective and creative detail to the work and absolutely enhanced my enjoyment and appreciation three-fold. The rest of the Vatican was impressive but with the exception of the Raphael rooms it was too similar to what I have already seen in Amsterdam and Paris to be of note. From the Vatican we moved on to the Spanish steps and then the Pantheon. We got gelati at one of the shops (I had a scoop of lemon and a scoop of melon and tasted Chrissy's coconut). We then wandered around the various squares and fountains and street vendors. I looked at some silk scarves for Pam but could not find any (that weren't horridly out of my price range) that I thought she would really like.
Mike and Chrissy wanted to find the Bocca di Verita (Mouth of Truth) so we wandered to the Portico. We then headed for Piazza Navona and window-shopped and stopped to smell the elegant Italian leathers.
We passed the boat-shaped fountain (Barcaccia) at Piazza de Spagna and onwards to the Fontane di Trevi into which we all tossed our small change (being broke travelers we opted for a few cents' promise of a return to Rome). We spent more time window shopping through Via Nationale before veering off to the Forum and Palatine Hill. Crossing under the Arch of Constantine we made our way to the Colosseum and then to the metro to return to the cap and fill our bellies and rest our tired feet.
I had a great pizza for dinner and we all went in together on a 5-liter bottle of wine to pass the evening. It was a full day and I am bushed but it was nice having other people with which to explore the city and I do not feel as if I missed anything drastically important nor did I feel rushed in the slightest.
Now I need to figure out tomorrow's trains and work out getting to Greece. Rome has been wonderful but I do not feel the tug of wanting to stay longer as I did in Florence.

Rome, Italy

Spent the morning at the Vatican Museum and Sistine Chapel. It was gorgeous and Michelangelo's infamous ceiling most certainly earns its reputation. I was glad to have the information from _Mona Winks_ with me though as it enhanced the viewing quite a bit through its explanations and details. I found the EasyInternet Cybercafe where time is just €1.35 per hour.
I am now heading out to see how much of the Ancient Rome walk I can accomplish. Rome does not have the beauty of Florence but it makes up for it with culture and character. And the campground is well enough of a natural retreat to satisfy the urge to get out of the fast-pace of the city. The worst place is the metro and trains... the people do not wait for you to get off before they begin to board and it becomes a push-and-shove slug-fest to get on or off the trains. And they are always packed full and generally unkempt and dirty. So no points for Rome in the public transport department. But the ceiling of the Sistine Chapel alone is well worth the visit.

Rome, Italy

It is a beautiful day though a bit chilly for mid-April in the South. I am headed to the Vatican today and then I will see what else I can get in. I understand they stop letting people in at 12:20 so I decided to do it first thing in the morning.

Rome, Italy

Arrived in Rome late this afternoon. Being completely famished I decided to have dinner at the restaurant connected to the campsite. Judging from the food on the tables around me it looks to be good and quite traditional. I can not quite place my finger on the reason but traveling in Italy is exhausting. The trains are always late, the stations are crowded and confusing and filled with rude and borderline obnoxious people. Termini station in Rome is that times ten. But just as in Florence, arrival at my final destination, Camping Tiber Rome, quickly washes away the unrest of the trip and I am suddenly relaxed and at home.
This site is similar to the Michelangelo site in Florence though absent is the view and the tents. These are actual structured dorms at €10 per night (a few bucks more per person can buy you a 2-person bungalow). This site is not so close to the city as the other one however. It is a 20-minute metro ride (with a train switch) and then a short shuttle bus from the metro drop to the campsite from the city center. But the metro is only € 0.77 and the shuttle is free and runs every half hour. It really is possible to have a European vacation without breaking the bank. You have to be willing to make some compromises (IE: my cold night in Florence) but even to just immerse oneself in the culture and observe the people and general city life can be a great experience.


Dinner was wonderful. I had an antipasto consisting of various meats and cheeses, a salad of mixed greens, onions, tomatoes, carrots and olives and an excellent spaghetti in a light cream sauce with spicy Tuscan sausage blended throughout. Along with a 1/2 liter of the house red and I am now finishing off one of those incredible Italian cappuccinos. The restaurant is really nice with a dose of character and a really friendly staff.
Tomorrow I plan on heading into the city and doing Rick Steves' walk through ancient Rome which will include the Colosseum, the Forum and the Pantheon. Then I plan on heading to the Vatican Museum and the Sistine Chapel. If I still have time I will also try to get to St. Peter's Basilica. Tomorrow looks to be one of those heavily 'touristy' days but then I should be able to relax a bit in the city Wednesday morning before heading off to Bari or Brindisi to arrange passage to Corfu. I have decided that trying to get to Athens or MT. Olympus while I am in Greece is simply not an option. Athens is a good 10-hour bus ride from Corfu and MT. Olympus would be double that at least. As much as it pains me not to see Athens I do not want to spend the bulk of my time in Greece riding a bus. My understanding is that movement throughout Greece is a labored effort since their rail system is underdeveloped.
I really have no specific plans for Corfu but to lounge on the beach and if it is not too costly perhaps to snorkel or cliff dive. A little vacation from my vacation with time to reflect upon where I have been and what I have seen so far.


I have now moved to the hostel bar and am updating the blog in the midst of having a beer with a guy from Australia who has been traveling for the past year or so. He just got into Europe from doing Canada and the States. And two girls studying in London and one girl from Carlisle, Pa. They are all winding down their Rome trip and heading off to Florence tomorrow or the day after.
This campsite has a better internet situation than the other though it is still expensive. Nothing like the cheap cybercafes in Holland and Sweden. I have had to try and learn to make the most use of my time online since Southern Europe seems to still be in the dark ages when it comes to net connections.

Florence, Italy

Well, I am all showered and ready to move on to Rome. About to check out of Camping De Michelangelo and catch the bus to the train station. The rain has stopped (for the moment anyway) and the sun has even chanced an appearance. I am not taking any chances though... I'm heading out while the weather is good. Hopefully it will remain so because I plan on doing a fair amount of walking through Rome.
I had a wonderful time in Florence even though I didn't get to see some of the things I wanted. I met some great people; John from Minnesota but living in London, Heather and Kelly from Minnesota, Yan (my tentmate) from Malaysia and Adell and Eileen from Ireland. And as I have said a number of times, the most beautiful country I have seen to date.

Florence, Italy

A steady soaking rain has been our companion since about 2200hrs last night. We here in the campground, an eclectic mix of nationality and philosophies, seem to be weathering it well. I truly hope it slacks off a bit while I head for the train to Rome.
As I wrote in my hard-copy journal last night two women sat down on the other side of the table and ordered their dinner. At first I couldn't tell what language they were speaking as they were just barely within earshot and I only caught a few words. Then I realized they were Irish, the heavy accent had thrown me off. Presently my tentmate turned up to borrow the corkscrew of my Swiss knife and he joined me. I struck up a conversation with the girls and found they were both school teachers from different parts of Ireland on Easter holiday in Italy. Adell, from near Dublin and Eileen, from Cork. Adell is an English teacher but well-schooled in Gaelic and Gaelge and word origins. I inquired as to the correct pronunciation and meaning of Derrick Dick's 'Slainte' and it brought forth a discussion of the word's Gaelic roots. She explained to me that the word 'slàn' can actually mean health, safe or good-bye and the way it is pronounced evolved into the English phrase phrase of 'So long' as the Irish immigrated to the States.
After while Heather and Kelly joined us and the six of us became one of the throngs of laughing friends I mentioned earlier. We passed the time talking of nude cliff jumping in Corfu, Sky diving in Switzerland, the bathrooms (or poor excuse for them by American standards in France and Italy) and other travel tidbits. The Irish girls are headed out for a 6-week trek of the Eastern US for their next trip, flying into Boston and making their way down to Miami. I encouraged them to set aside a day or two for The Smithsonian when they are in the DC area.

Florence, Italy

The aforementioned cloud seems to made made a shoddy job of his repair work as it has been raining for the last two hours. So much for my adjective-sprinkled weather forecast similes. I think I will stick to sunsets... there seems to be a much stronger rate of successful description.
It has stopped raining now but it is damp and a strong chill has taken hold. No doubt it will be a rather cool night. I am sitting on the terrace again with a bottle of Lambrusco and the rest of the cheese from last night. This is a simply divine way to pass the time. The rain has gathered many of the campers to the sheltered part of the terrace and life bursts around me in little cliques...


A group of young French, one of them softly strumming an old nylon-string acoustic. A shy female voice softly flows in and out of his stanzas; A couple cooking pasta beside me on an old well-used propane stove. The pasta finishes and he adds the sauce and splits the lot between them. The aroma wafts over to me and indicates they will enjoy their fare; Another group to my right pop the corks of bottle after bottle of wine as they share bread, meat and cheese purchased from the market below; An older couple, probably in their sixties, daintily carry steaming mugs of cappuccino to a table and sip as they admire the hazy mountains in the distance; Two 30-something women discuss whether to go out to the city tonight or stay in but seem to opt for the latter as they settle back with café au lait in hand and light long thin cigarettes.
All around the soft sounds of laughter and contentment surround. Doubtless everyone here has the same worries, concerns and strife that plague all our lives but tonight they have been cast aside: Forgotten for a brief period to experience the sheer joy of treating a 10-minutes-ago-stranger as the kid you met the first day of second grade and remained with, inseparable until the year after graduation when we all invariably lose touch as a product of striking our own path and embracing this huge world and all it has to offer. Tonight is a night for ancient friendships reenacted by strangers.
The rain has cast a particular purple haze to the dusky sky and though quite a different picture from last night still absolutely stunning.

Florence, Italy

I just had a great sandwich from a street vendor. Roast pork with peppers and a mushroom sauce on a toasted roll. I had planned on having dinner at a restaurant tonight but nothing was open yet and I was hungry. It was only €3 and it was excellent. I still have some cheese and chips left from last night so I will probably pick up a bottle of wine and sit out on the terrace again.
Tomorrow morning I will have some coffee, pack and head for Rome. I would have liked to see Michelangelo's David but I would have had to stay until Wednesday for the Academia to open again. Besides, I don't plan on missing his work at the Vatican and I am sure that will suffice.

Florence, Italy

I wanted to step back a few days and write about Notre Dame. When I went to the cathedral I had intended to make the tower climb. When I arrived there was over a 2 hour wait and I decided to save the time (and the €6) and simply go through the cathedral. I happened to arrive at the beginning of a mass which I stayed and watched for a short time. Not being Catholic combined with an inability to understand French or Latin as well as being slightly pressed for time the service could not hold my interest for too long but it was an interesting experience. I followed the rest of the visitors' path throughout the cathedral marveling at the stained glass every step of the way, said short prayer at the alter and filed back outside where I attempted to capture the grandiose structure on film.


Now back to Florence...
A soft rain has begun to fall but it seems to be one of those quick sprinkling Summer showers that are usually over as quickly as they arrive. As if a cloud simply sprung a leak and needed just a few moments to patch the hole before adjusting itself to allow the sun to shine over and warm the repair.
I took a walk in the other direction late this morning and wherever I turn in this city I simply find the most beautiful countryside and exquisite views upon which I have ever had the pleasure of feasting my eyes. I only wonder if the rest of Italy is filled with such beauty.